I’m not usually a fan of hotel restaurants, to be honest. They always seem to be a bit lacking in the atmosphere department (as might be expected from a restaurant that’s frequented because the guests don’t have much choice) and the food often tends to be a bit ‘meh’. Even renowned hotel restaurants can feel a little, well, hotel-ish.

I’m happy to make an exception for Level Four at 54 on Bath, though. For one thing, it has the most gorgeous champagne garden. If you’re looking for a place to sip summer sundowners, this has to be it.

The restaurant itself is pretty, too. There’s something about it that makes me feel terribly fancy and glamorous; it’s perfect for date night, especially if you’re looking for a meal that’s grander than your local bistro, but not inaccessible in the way fine dining often is.

Something else I like about it: the restaurant has just launched a ‘sunshine’ menu featuring fresh, light, healthier tastes. I could quite happily order nothing more than the yellow fin tuna (served with peas, pickles and wasabi mousse) and carpaccio starters – yes, I know it’s nothing new, but the carpaccio comes with a truffle mayonnaise that’s absolutely divine.For mains, I highly recommend that ‘Black Angus’ fillet, mainly because it’s accompanied by oxtail – something which I can never resist, and which is particularly good here. I’m not a lamb fan, but it would seem I’m missing out: apparently, the lamb cutlet (dished up with pea puree, confit belly, braised shoulder and asparagus is one of the most popular dishes on the menu.

Dessert-wise: chocolate lovers, prepare to meet your nemesis. The dark chocolate ganache is spectacular on its own, but when you manage to create the perfect spoonful blending the accompanying bitter meringue, Amarula ice cream, granadilla mousse and caramel sauce – well, I don’t need to say anything more, do I?

I also love Level Four’s food philosophy: the restaurant is a huge supporter of sustainability and nose-to-tail eating. Cheers to that!