Beneath glowing mirrors and soaring acrobats, Head of Yum Emile Goliath leads a tightly choreographed performance of precision, legacy and iconic flavour
To step inside the Spiegeltent of The Royal Countess Zingara is to surrender to a world of sensory enchantment. Mirror-lined walls glow, acrobats defy gravity overhead and live music fills every corner of the auditorium. Yet behind the velvet curtain, an equally breathless performance unfolds on the line. Here, fine dining transforms into a high-wire act – where hundreds of multi-course meals must land simultaneously with the pinpoint precision of an aerial descent.
At the helm of this culinary circus is Emile Goliath. Holding the playful official title of Head of Yum, Goliath joined the Zingara family around 2010 as a sous chef under the mentorship of Gretel Ferreira. Today, he commands a brigade that feeds a packed house every evening. In an environment where standard restaurant rules cease to apply, leading this kitchen requires far more than artistic flair; it demands absolute synchronisation with the stage cues.
Cooking to the Beat of the Stage
Unlike traditional fine-dining kitchens governed by ticket printers and steady table turns, the Zingara crew cooks strictly to the rhythm of the show.
“If an act is eight minutes long, we know four of those minutes the meat must be in the oven, two minutes are for plating and one minute is for the pass.”
– Emile Goliath, Head of Yum
If a specific chorus echoes through the curtain, the team knows instantly whether they are on pace or falling behind. “If you hear a certain song and the dish isn’t plated, you know you’re late,” Goliath laughs.
It is an intricate culinary ballet co-designed with Gretel Ferreira, who, despite moving into her role as Head of Operations, still sits down with Goliath for every show refresh to map out oven timings, plating windows and heat retention down to the second. “Gretel taught me everything about how to lead, train and respect the team. Even as Head of Yum leading this pass, having her guidance on those show timings is invaluable.”
A Legacy Built on Decades of Trust
Executing hundreds of main courses simultaneously in under 15 minutes requires deep muscle memory and unquestioning trust. Fortunately, the Zingara kitchen isn’t a high-pressure environment built on raised voices.
“I’ve gone past the days where I scream,” says Goliath. “You don’t need to shout. When you’ve worked together this long, you just say one thing and everyone knows the five steps that follow.”
That effortless synergy stems from deep historical roots. Long-standing team members like sous chef Sam have been cooking alongside Zingara’s visionary founder, Richard Griffin, for decades. When the big top was raised once more, nearly 60 per cent of the original kitchen crew returned to the pass – alongside a brand-new generation.
“Some of their kids are starting to work in the kitchen now,” Goliath notes with pride. “It really is a close-knit, multi-generational family. If there’s no trust behind the pass, things fall apart. We lead by example, and we trust each other completely.”
The Perfectionist’s Palate
Central to that dynamic is Richard Griffin himself. Far from an absentee founder, Griffin is a constant, hands-on presence on the floor, testing sauces and tasting every component before it earns a place on the menu.
“It’s a bit crazy because Richard is so hands-on,” Goliath smiles. “He doesn’t sit in an office – he’s everywhere, tasting and checking everything. When we develop a new dish, we refine it constantly. It doesn’t always get approved the first time. We both get frustrated, but that relentless commitment to detail is what makes the final dish perfect. It shows how much equal care we both put into the experience.”
Symphony of the Senses: The Hero Dish and the Quest for Cocoa
While the evening’s full menu takes guests on a deliberate progression – from delicate, vibrant starters that mirror the opening acts to theatrical desserts designed for a showstopping finale – one plate stands as the undeniable headline act of The Royal Countess menu: the legendary Chocolate Chilli Fillet.
Created by Griffin over 15 years ago, the signature course subverts expectations with every bite, pairing tender beef fillet with a velvety chocolate-chilli sauce and deep-fried vermicelli noodles for a delicate crunch.
“Nobody expects chocolate, chilli and deep-fried noodles on a steak plate. It’s about unexpected textures and rich flavours that linger in your memory long after the show ends.”
Maintaining that exact memory requires astonishing dedication. When the original chocolate supplier discontinued the specific line used for the sauce, the team refused to alter the recipe. Instead, they tracked down the company that had bought out the original manufacturer just to secure the exact same cocoa profile.
“That dish hasn’t changed a single note in 15 years,” Goliath says. “It tastes identical to how it did when we first served it.”
The Magic Endures
As The Royal Countess Zingara continues to captivate audiences night after night, it becomes clear that the magic extending from the stage to the dining table is no happy accident. It is the product of decades of shared history, uncompromising standards and a profound respect for the craft.
“Walking into the Spiegeltent every night, seeing the legacy evolve while staying true to who we are – that’s what gives you goosebumps,” Goliath reflects.
And as long as Emile and his team are behind the pass, the performance inside the kitchen will remain every bit as extraordinary as the one beneath the big top.