IN GOOD SPIRITS WITH LEAH VAN DEVENTER
Mai Tai or Yours?
The rivalry behind a famed tiki libation.
Unpacking the history, myths, and legacy of the world’s most famous tiki drink.
Every 30 August, World Mai Tai Day drifts in like a warm trade wind, an invitation to sink into a brief tropical reverie.
What is a Mai Tai?
The Mai Tai is certainly nothing if not transportive. Flamboyant, fun and seductively intoxicating, it’s no surprise it became a vehicle for post-war escapism in an America gasping for good times.
Who Invented the Mai Tai? The Rivalry of Trader Vic vs Donn Beach
But although the drink made the memories of World War Two float away like an forgotten lilo or pool float, it created a battle of its own: the scuffle for authorship between the two godfathers of tiki culture, Ernest Raymond Beaumont Gantt, better known as Donn Beach, and Victor “Trader Vic” Bergeron.
Both launched tiki bars in California in the 30s; Donn with Donn the Beachcomber in 1933, and Vic a year later with Hinky Dink’s, which went on to become the first venue in his famous Trader Vic’s franchise.
They bickered on and off for years – a spat that ultimately culminated in lawsuit in the 70s.
Vic claimed he invented it in 1944, when he concocted a drink from rum, lime, orange curaçao, orgeat and rock-candy syrup for visiting friends from Tahiti. Their delighted cry, “Mai tai roa ae!” – meaning “the best, out of this world” – allegedly gave the drink its name.
However, sometime in the 30s, Donn had created the QB Cooler, a heady mix of rum, lime, orange curaçao, falernum, honey, ginger syrup, soda and bitters. The similarity was undeniable.
While history credits Donn for the first tiki bar, Vic essentially won the mêlée of the Mai Tai, but not without having to cede inspiration to his nemesis.
Quick Answer: Who Invented the Mai Tai Cocktail?
The Mai Tai’s invention is disputed. Trader Vic claimed he created it in 1944 with rum, lime, orange curaçao, and orgeat. However, Donn Beach’s earlier cocktail, the QB Cooler, shared many similarities and likely inspired Vic’s version. Most cocktail historians credit Trader Vic, while acknowledging Donn Beach’s influence.
The Mai Tai and Tiki Culture
Now, it’s worth noting that neither Donn nor Vic had ever been to Polynesia, and nor does the Mai Tai have any Polynesian ingredients. However, GIs returning from the Pacific in the mid 40s brought back tall tales (and trauma), while civilians who’d never left yearned for exoticism after a dreary three years of rations ceded to feeding the war machine.
Rather, both Donn and Vic had drawn inspiration from travel magazines, films and their own daydreams. Before you could say “cultural appropriation”, the golden age of tiki had exploded like a glitter-bomb envelope, in a technicolor fancy stitched together from Hollywood’s South Seas obsessions, gauche postcards and a thirst for escape.
Tiki bars delivered the fantasy, with faux bamboo, blowfish lamps, carved idols and nautical paraphernalia.
The Evolution of the Mai Tai Recipe
The Mai Tai was the movement’s jewel, a bold, boozy and surprisingly refined tipple in a world of chaotic tiki fruit punches. As palates shifted toward the sweet – and the original Jamaican rum used became obsolete – the recipe for the Mai Tai drifted too. Eventually, it became mangled beyond recognition, with pineapple juice and grenadine creeping in.
Ironically, by the time Donn and Vic squared up in court, the once-classic Mai Tai was a sugar-sodden caricature of itself.
Mai Tai Today: A Cocktail Renaissance
Happily, the modern cocktail renaissance has had bartenders leafing through old books, remaking orgeat, hunting down funky rums and bringing the Mai Tai back to its balanced best.
Still, we can’t ignore the baggage. Tiki was borrowed carelessly from Polynesian people, reducing them to décor and costume, without thought for their dignity.
Today, we try to keep the craft while rethinking the staging, ensuring tiki’s next chapter doesn’t repeat its past mistakes.
Celebrate World Mai Tai Day
So, this World Mai Tai Day, let’s toast a drink that’s endured rivalries, lawsuits and decades of bad imitations, yet still conjures paradise on cue.
A holiday in a glass, with just enough imagination in the mix.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Mai Tai
Q: Who invented the Mai Tai?
A: The Mai Tai’s invention is disputed. Trader Vic claimed to create it in 1944, but Donn Beach’s earlier QB Cooler cocktail likely inspired the recipe. Most cocktail historians credit Trader Vic, while noting Donn Beach’s influence.
Q: What are the ingredients in a classic Mai Tai?
A: The original Mai Tai uses Jamaican rum, fresh lime juice, orange curaçao, orgeat (almond syrup), and rock-candy syrup. Modern versions sometimes add pineapple juice or grenadine, but these are later adaptations.
Q: When is World Mai Tai Day?
A: World Mai Tai Day is celebrated every year on August 30. It’s the perfect occasion to enjoy a classic Mai Tai and honor the tiki cocktail’s colorful history.